Champagne Laurent-Perrier, Grand Siècle No. 25, Brut

The NV Brut Grande Cuvée Grand Siècle No. 25 is bright and gracious in feel. Orchard fruit, mint, dried flowers, lemon peel, graphite and chamomile are beautifully lifted. The No. 25 is fresh and taut but has enough fruit to be approachable now. The blend of vintages - 2008 60%), 2007 20%), 2006 20%) - is quite complementary. I liked the No. 25 more from magnum, but Champagne often shows so well in larger formats.

Drink 2022 - 2036

The NV Champagne Grand Siecle Grand Cuvée No. 25 is composed of the 2008, 2007, and 2006 vintages, from nine Grand Crus, and has 7 grams per liter dosage. It is only the second time in Laurent-Perrier’s history that this the cuvée was produced from consecutive vintages. This is the first and most complete of the three expressions I tasted in Tours-sur-Marne in September, as it strikes remarkable balance between richness and tension. The nose is elegant in its ripeness, with perfumed layers of white flowers, honey, and sweet pastry. Meanwhile, the palate is compact, racy, and focused. It all comes together with great length and a long finish.

Incredible aromas of apple skin, pie crust, praline and flowers. So young in the nose. Full-bodied with super-fine tannins. It’s tight and refined yet structured and intense. Really long and beautiful. Still shy. Wonderful finish. 12 years on its lees before disgorging. Three vintages in the blend – 2008 65%), 2007 25%) and 2006 10%). 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir. It’s the highest percentage of chardonnay ever.

The 25th iteration of Laurent-Perrier's de luxe cuvée always a blend of different vintages in their quest to make the perfect champagne. Deep gold with the tiniest bead. Very pungently aromatic and with a texture as smooth as silk. Utterly luxurious. Slides over the palate with an undertow of surprisingly ripe Chardonnay. I'd drink this with a sophisticated fish dish, perhaps with a rich sauce. I love the gentlest of explosions on the palate. Surely this has a lower-than-average pressure? Very long. But it is not recommended for those who like their champagne on the austere side. This launched in late 2021, but it tastes as though it was already gorgeous in 2020.

Drink 2021 - 2027

Laurent-Perrier's imminently released NV Brut Grand Siècle 25 shows beautifully, unwinding in the glass with an incipiently complex bouquet of pear, crisp stone fruit and mandarin mingled with hints of smoke, buttered toast and dried white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, with a fleshy core of fruit, terrific concentration and a racy spine of acidity, it's a deep, comparatively structured wine that will evolve beautifully in the cellar.

As I've written before, this iteration is a blend of the 2008, 2007 and 2006 vintages, with 2008 lending 25 its depth and structure, 2007 contributing additional cut and 2006 additional richness. While the 25 exemplifies the seamless charm of this bottling, it's also one of the best propositions for long-term cellaring among recent renditions of Grand Siècle, and it will really reward time on the cork.

Drink 2023 - 2045