2017 Barolo, Brunate, Marcarini, Piedmont, Italy

This wine is officially entitled to Riserva status due to its extended ageing in bottle, but it’s not labelled as such. It’s fabulously intense, compact and heady with the notes of a dry vintage: sage, white pepper, some mint, tobacco and liquorice. This isn’t a typical La Morra, but it’s from a great vineyard, with the svelte lines of the commune.

Mark Pardoe MW, Wine Director, Berry Bros. & Rudd