Champagne Billecart-Salmon, Sous Bois

A baby brother to Clos St-Hilaire, 100% barrel-fermented. One-third of each variety from selected parcels – older, lower-yielding parcels tend to be chosen for the Sous Bois. 52% grand cru grapes, 16% premier cru across the whole portfolio; their Meunier isn’t grand or premier cru). One-third reserve wine. Malo blocked. Long lees-ageing 6–7 years). Slightly oxidative style – the most oxidative they make.

A richer mouthfeel as well as real bite. A savoury and yeasty note on the nose – almost slight Marmite yeast extract). The oak is very well integrated and just frames the wine – the subtle note of spice comes in on the finish – slightly cedary note? 

Drink 2021 - 2036

Rich, radiant and resonant, the Brut NV Sous Bois is wonderfully expressive. Dried orchard fruit, spice and chamomile build nicely with aeration. This release is based on 2015 with 40% reserve wines, a blend that works so well. Delicate floral and dried herb notes linger. The dosage is 5 grams per litre. Disgorged: 2nd quarter 2022.

Mathieu Roland-Billecart has given his family’s Maison a much-needed kick in the rear end since taking over the reins in 2019. For years, Billecart-Salmon was a sleepy maison turning out gorgeous Champagnes at the top end but several undistinguished offerings at the lower level. Booking appointments or even getting a reply from the Maison was a challenge. That attitude was also pervasive at their US importer, T. Edward, because leadership, or lack of it, is a contagious force. 

Things are remarkably different today. Roland-Billecart is young and dynamic, very much in touch with the modern world. Recent wines made under his tenure show more focus and quality than in the past because of greater selection and attention to detail. I was deeply impressed with what I tasted at the Maison during a recent visit and then more recently at my office in the US.

Drink 2023 - 2030

The NV Champagne Sous Bois Brut pours a medium yellow to deeper straw hue, and the nose is warming and more generous with notes of toast, red fruit of ripe raspberry, spice, and espresso. The palate is rounded, with a rich texture though dry, offering notes of orange peel and currant. It has a silky texture and a fairly long finish with ripe concentration. It is drinking well now and should drink well over the next 15 years.

Mathieu Roland-Billecart assumed the position of CEO at this estate in 2019 and represents the seventh generation in his family. The house is based in Maureuil sur Ay, which is also the location of the monopole vineyard of Clos Saint-Hillaire. They source from approximately 300 hectares of vines, of which they own a third. French and Stockingur barrels with medium toast are purchased new and seasoned at the house for three to five years before use. 

About 80% of production is fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. Only the best plots are fermented in barrels at cold temperatures before being transferred to stainless steel tanks for aging after no more than six months. None of the wines are aged in barrel, and they never allow for malolactic fermentation to occur in barrel.

Drink 2022 - 2037

Attractive nose of brioche, walnuts, salted almonds and baked apples. Some nutmeg. Lovely richness of flavor yet so bright, medium-bodied, with a salty freshness and very fine bubbles. Excellent length. 2016 base vintage with 26% reserve wines going back to 2006. 2.9g/L dosage. 

Drink now

Bright yellow. Pungent orchard fruit and lemon curd scents are complemented by suggestions of vanilla, anise and smoky minerals. It is toasty and silky in texture, offering juicy pear and tangerine flavours, plus a deeper suggestion of candied fig on the back half. Closes sappy, focused and long, with repeating smokiness and strong mineral cut.

Fermented and aged over winter in second-hand small barrels and barrels seasoned in-house although future editions will include wine from larger casks). Rich and inviting apricot and kernel notes, brown butter and nutty honey. Some soft strawberry and an appetising, tangy apple length, highly expressive but really rather polished and rounded out. One third each Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay.

Drink 2023 - 2028

Disgorged in the second quarter of 2022 with a dosage of 4.9 grams per litre, Billecart-Salmon’s NV Brut Sous Bois emerges from the glass with aromas of orchard fruit, pear, peach, nuts and spring flowers. It's medium to full-bodied, clean and pure, with tangy acids and pastry notes on the finish. Elegant, linear and fruit-driven, this Champagne can be enjoyed right now or cellared for another year or two. 

Base vintage: 2015 60% of the blend and vinified in old barrels) with 40% of vins de réserve, the earliest vintage of which is 2006. It comprises 30% Pinot Noir sourced from Aÿ and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, 40% Chardonnay from Côtes de Blancs grands crus and 30% Pinot Meunier from the Vallée de la Marne.

Drink 2023 - 2028