2023 Kumeu River, Coddington Chardonnay, Kumeu, New Zealand

This leased 1.8-ha vineyard, all clone 15, was planted 1994. There are another two years to run on the current lease but the Brajkoviches are hoping to renew it and are heartened by the fact that, although Kumeu is prime redevelopment area, there has been no change in planning permissions for the moment. Malan Brajkovich has been completely in charge of viticulture there since 2017 and reckons the vineyard has improved as a result. Paul B: ‘the fruit looked the best ever before the deluge of 27 January. We were able to go in and hand-pick the clean stuff by hand.’ Whole-bunch pressed. Spontaneous fermentation. 100% barrel-fermented in used French oak. 100% malo and 11 months’ maturation in barrel. According to Paul B, the 2008, opened fairly recently in a search for a wine to add to their Crémant at disgorgement stage, was looking surprisingly good.

Sturdy, dry, burgundian nose. Very textural start with very slight oiliness towards the end. Already very broachable with a tiny hint of lemon cough sweets on the finish. Will surely develop more creaminess and less of a grainy texture. Still some tannins evident.

Drink 2026 - 2035

17+/20, Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com (Sep 2024)