2022 Sancerre, Cuvée Marcel Henri Denise, Daniel Chotard, Loire

This vintage sees a name and label change for this wine, recognising the role of Simon’s grandmother, Denise, in creating the domaine. The fruit still comes from the old vine Champs d’Alligny vineyard on griotte topsoil with Kimmeridgian clay beneath. Its horseshoe shape offers three different expositions, adding to the wine’s layered complexity. A substantial 80% is made in acacia foudre, with the remainder in stone amphora, which has the benefits of oak but without the wood flavour. Grippy, chewy, and serious, with loads of tension and salinity, this is a wine that will reward some ageing.

Adam Bruntlett, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd