2022 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux, Bordeaux

Pale gold in colour, maintaining pale green reflections even in such a hot vintage, and this delivers a sharp almost steely feel, with a white flower and citrus kick. The luscious aspect of the year comes through with lemon confit through the mid palate, and overall the fruit flavours and textures are creamier than in 2021, but this has nuance and lift. The team at Margaux, led by Philippe Bascaules, is always so careful to avoid skin contact in the whites, and only use the first fraction of the juice that comes out of the press;, and it pays off in this exceptional wine. 3.18ph (higher than last year but still low enough to give clear grip). Harvest for the whites from August 18 for five days. 14h/h yield, extremely low, with 50% of the crop in Pavillon Blanc (they are introducing a 2nd white wine this year, although name not yet announced). Drink 2023 – 2036
96/100, Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux (April 2023)