2022 Marsannay Rouge, Clos du Roy, Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Burgundy

80% whole clusters. Outstanding value.

Once again, there is a highly attractive floral quality to the softly spicy, if distinctly earthy nose that features mostly notes of dark currant and exotic tea. There is good underlying tension to the well-detailed medium-weight flavours that are shaped by relatively fine-grained tannins on the chiselled and sneaky long finish that is akin to rolling tiny pebbles around in the mouth. This decidedly firm effort is an excellent example of the vineyard, though one that will need all of a decade to arrive at its apogee.

Drink from 2032 onward

The Marsannay Clos du Roy from Pataille is consistently among the top wines of the northern Côte de Nuits. The 2022 features soulful, super-ripe cassis and bramble fruit aromas with a savoury, smoky edge. The texture is dense and concentrated, with abundant tannin and enough freshness to drive this to an impressively long finish. The grapes are from Pataille's parcel of more than two hectares of mature vines planted in this southeast facing site's limestone pebbles and clay soil. It is slightly closed at present, but it should open in three to five years and drink well for at least another 20 years after that.

Drink 2030 - 2070

The 2022 Marsannay Clos du Roy has a very well-defined bouquet with black cherries and wild strawberries, hints of inkwell and brine joining the chorus line with time. The palate is medium-bodied, taut and fresh, with fine-grain tannins, and has a very elegant, poised finish. It is about as good a Marsannay as you will find in this vintage.

Drink 2025 - 2038