2022 Colore Bianco, Bibi Graetz, Tuscany, Italy

Slightly less expressive on the nose than the Testamatta Bianco, this 100% Ansonica from old vines, is more subtle with pear, apricot, wild honey, white blossom and a delicate dusting of pepper and clove spice. Generous and charming, this settles quite quickly on the tongue, a dash of bitterness, soft acidity, sweet and ripe yellow fruit, warming toasted and herbal nuances and salty edges.

It's concentrated and detailed, but more brimming under the surface at this point, not yet ready to come out all guns blazing. Beautiful construction and a captivating display of flavours. I love the nuance and the rawness - tastes somewhat wild and a true expression of the grape and place with such a long-lasting finish. Extremely moreish and just begs another sip to see the evolution. A great wine.

Drink to 2032

Intense aromas of lime skin and other citrus fruit. Some apricot, too. Crushed stone. Sea breeze and crushed sea salt. Full-bodied with a firm and intense texture that is so long and flavorful. It goes on for minutes. Nice bitter notes from the dried lemon and apricot. Botanicals. Light chewiness adds to the complexity.

Drink or hold

Ideal with a 30 minute carafe.

Bibi Graetz here takes the little known Ansonica grape and gives it the Colore twist. Restrained aromatics, lightly poached savoury pear for the dominant flavours, fresh acidities, white pepper and cloves, edges of bay leaf, understated and unusual. This is elegant, with stature and texture. Has precision and clarity of flavour, with a salt-licked signoff, strongly recommend a half hour carafe before drinking, because this needs time to show its complexity - it was even more delicious the next day, always a sign of a great wine that has enough structure and complexity to age. 

Drink 2023 - 2030