2022 Chorey-lès-Beaune, Les Bons Ores, Domaine Guyon, Burgundy

This remains the most impressive representation of a terroir that is usually presumed to produce appealing but essentially quite simple wines, but is elevated by Jean-Pierre’s methods, which would normally be considered to be too labour-intensive at this level. Nearly all the vines here are over 100 years old and whilst there is Chorey’s trademark dark cherry fruit, this is composed and expressive, with a silky essence that caresses as well as satisfying. The finish is lifted and impressively long.

Drink 2025-2035, Berry Bros. & Rudd