2021 Château Vray Croix de Gay, Pomerol, Bordeaux

Merlot 80%, Cabernet Franc 20%.

A rather complex history means that this property is less well known than it deserves to be. It’s now under the same ownership as Calon Ségur (the Suravenir insurance group; they bought it from the owners of Latour), and so a new chapter begins. With vineyards near La Fleur-Pétrus, Le Gay and Trotanoy, the potential is evident. With Calon’s excellent Technical Director, Vincent Millet, overseeing matters, the 2021 here has a tense and expressively high-toned bouquet. The palate is assertive and creamy, growing in flavour and depth. This is an impressive effort from a seemingly rarely seen property.

Our score: 17/20

Berry Bros. & Rudd