2019 Brunello di Montalcino, Franci, Riserva, Tassi, Tuscany, Italy

Planted in 1979, the Franchi vineyard covers one hectare in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, facing south-east at an altitude of 245 metres. The soils here are loam and marl. This is the first Riserva made here since 2016 and just 2,500 bottles were made using just the oldest vines. Just like its predecessor, this is a visceral, earthy wine, smoky and dark, with notes of tapenade and garrigue.

On the palate, it shifts a gear and the tannins peel away to reveal juicier but tart notes of maraschino cherry, wild strawberry and underbrush. Overall this is dense and brooding and will require time to reveal itself, but glimpses of its class are already on show.

Charlie Leech, Buying Assistant, Berry Bros. & Rudd