2019 Barolo, Monfortino, Riserva, Giacomo Conterno, Piedmont, Italy

The 2019 Barolo Riserva Monfortino has closed down considerably since I last tasted it. Then again, the 2019 is a very serious Monfortino that includes the entirety of Conterno’s production from both Francia and Arione. Today, the tannins are pretty imposing, but modern Monfortinos have shown an ability to assimilate their tannin with much less time in bottle than was once required. Production for the 2019 is on the higher side because of the blending of sites, so readers should have a relatively easy time sourcing this.

I’ve tasted the 2019 Barolo Monfortino three times before bottling at the estate, and it’s one of those vintages where no Francia was made, so all the fruit went into the Monfortino. This is a highly structured expression of the cuvée, yet it shows remarkable finesse and nimbleness in the glass. Aromas of leather, smoky earth, cherries, and floral cologne emerge with clarity and depth. The palate is tightly woven and precise, with firm yet balanced tannins, vibrant acidity, and a long, resonant finish. It’s already showing beautifully, and this is truly as good as it gets. The nobility of its structure is profound and promises decades of evolution. Speaking with Roberto Conterno during this tasting, he likened the wine to the 2013, but noted that it carries more elegance even now, something he attributes to the inclusion of Arrione in the final blend.

It's been a while, alas. The last vintage of this legendary wine was 2015. Skipping forward to a year of natural richness and concentration, the Giacomo Conterno 2019 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a magnificently executed wine. It carefully reins in the soaring power of Nebbiolo and whittles it down to extreme finesse and precision. This is the essence of the grape with no extra bells or whistles. Roberto Conterno tells me he chose not to make Monfortino in 2016 because he considered 2015 to be a superior vintage. (There is an image problem with 2015, he concedes, because 2016 was more consistent overall than 2015; however, his experience with 2015 is better.) The 2017 vintage was a contender for Monfortino, but the wine was not made. The 2018 vintage also came close to production, but a lack of diurnal temperature shifts at the end of the growing season disqualified it, Roberto Conterno explains. His heart settled on 2019, a vintage that reminds him of the tension and energy found in 2013. However, the DNA of the 2019 vintage is slightly different because this edition sees 27% fruit blended from Arione. This site adds finesse and elegance. The rest of the blend represents a special selection from Francia, and that is where this wine gets its power and age-worthy tannins. The 2019 will be released in October 2025.