2017 Vosne-Romanée, Les Charmes de Mazières, Domaine Guyon, Burgundy

This is the selection of Jean-Pierre’s oldest vines, all tagged before harvest so that they can be picked separately. This shares much of the character of the “junior” cuvée, but thrills with a top note of perfume and magic that runs from the bouquet to the finish. Drink 2022-2028.

Jean-Pierre Guyon tasted his berries on 8th September and was not impressed. He waited for the rain that weekend and was among the last to harvest on 15th September. He got lucky, but his assiduous vineyard work must also have helped the astonishing transformation. It’s an hugely impressive range, better than 2016 in  Jean-Pierre’s view, and certainly one of  the best addresses this year. He has smart new labels as well, with vin biologique proudly to the fore. There is more terroir definition this year, and Jean-Pierre will bottle a little earlier.