2017 Vosne-Romanée, Les Brûlées, 1er Cru, Domaine Guyon, Burgundy

The 2017 is the essence of the Brûlées vineyard, whose name does suggest that grapes get very ripe here. There is also a sense of decadence (in the modern sense of the word). It’s a heady, sensual wine in Jean-Pierre’s hands. Drink 2022-2028.

Jean-Pierre Guyon tasted his berries on 8th September and was not impressed. He waited for the rain that weekend and was among the last to harvest on 15th September. He got lucky, but his assiduous vineyard work must also have helped the astonishing transformation. It’s an hugely impressive range, better than 2016 in  Jean-Pierre’s view, and certainly one of  the best addresses this year. He has smart new labels as well, with vin biologique proudly to the fore. There is more terroir definition this year, and Jean-Pierre will bottle a little earlier.