2017 Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Platières, Domaine Guyon, Burgundy

It is revealing when different tasters independently ascribe identical descriptors. Griotte (morello cherry) featured in the 2016 and here it is again. Once more, it is the age and health of the vines, from three parcels of 80 to 90 years old that give the wine its intensity. Drink 2020-2025.

Jean-Pierre Guyon tasted his berries on 8th September and was not impressed. He waited for the rain that weekend and was among the last to harvest on 15th September. He got lucky, but his assiduous vineyard work must also have helped the astonishing transformation. It’s an hugely impressive range, better than 2016 in  Jean-Pierre’s view, and certainly one of  the best addresses this year. He has smart new labels as well, with vin biologique proudly to the fore. There is more terroir definition this year, and Jean-Pierre will bottle a little earlier.