2016 Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Cascina Fontana, Piedmont, Italy

Mario started producing this, his top cuvée, in 2013 to reflect his family roots in Castiglione Falletto. The fruit comes from two vineyards: Villero, with its sandy limestone soil, provides finesse while Valetti, at the top of Mariondino, with its compacted limestone, gives structure and minerality. It’s fermented on its skins in fibreglass tanks (of which Mario is a big fan) for a whopping 43 days, spending two years in Slavonian botti, then a year in concrete. A heroic wine, it’s austere at present but with an expertly judged balance, energy and power and a taut, mineral spine. Drink 2024-2045.