2012 Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Evocelles, Domaine de la Vougeraie, Burgundy
Description
Planted at 36,000 vines per hectare Les Evocelles must be among the highest-density plantings in France. As a result, the vines compete for water and nutrients producing small, highly flavoured berries. The wine shows ripe berries with rich cherry notes, the finesse of a fine tannic structure and a finish that continues for a very long time. The 100% whole clusters are easily blended with the ripeness of the fruit.
This superb domaine grows in reputation and in size: this year sees the first vintage of Nuits-St Georges, Clos de Thorey. Look out for even further additions in the next two years. Winemaker Pierre Vincent’s style is for lighter colours and very sensual wines, and he has done a cracking job again in 2012; a vintage which supported the plentiful use of whole bunch fermentation. The domaine is certified organic and fully biodynamic.
Berry Bros. & Rudd
-
Colour
Red -
Sweetness
Dry -
Vintage
2012 -
Alcohol
12.5% -
Grape
Pinot Noir -
Body
Medium Bodied -
Producer
Domaine de la Vougeraie
Critics reviews
From vines on the Brochon side.
An expressive and very restrained nose features essence of raspberry liqueur aromas that display considerable floral elements. There is an equally restrained and understated feel to the focused middle weight flavors that also possess a saline-inflected, clean and agreeably dry finish that does not quite have the same depth.
Drink from 2018 onward.
Dark red cherry, plum, violet, new leather and spice all blossom in the 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles. A wine of superior density, the Evocelles stands out for its pliant, expressive personality and pure depth. The 2012 is broad, creamy and expansive, with more than enough stuffing to improve in the cellar for a number of years. In 2012 winemaker Pierre Vincent used 60% whole clusters on the Evocelles.
Once again, winemaker Pierre Vincent has crafted some of the most impeccable, polished whites and reds in Burgundy. There is a lot to like in this range, all the way from accessible offerings to the rarest and most prized Grand Crus. As good as the best reds are, the Vougeraie whites are just as compelling, especially now that the range has been expanded. As always, farming is biodynamic. The reds, especially at the top end, are vinified with a high amount of whole clusters and see considerable new oak during élevage. Balance is the name of the game in these exceptional Burgundies. Most of the wines I tasted were still in barrel, but a few of the entry-level cuvées were bottled in September 2013. Readers who can find the Vougeraie wines should not hesitate, as they are fabulous.
Drink 2017 - 2027
According to Pierre, the 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles suffered a lot of millerandage in 2012 and so he supplemented the blend with 70% whole bunches. The nose offers brambly red fruit mixed with mushroom and sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth, almost creamy opening. It needs time for the new oak 30%) to be subsumed, although there is decent weight on the vanilla-laced finish.
60% vendange entier): Bright medium red. Precise but restrained aromas of redcurrant, dried flowers and spices. Suave and energetic, conveying lovely spicy cut and herbal complexity to its currant and plum flavors. An excellent village wine from shallow rocky soil. Finishes lively and long.
Winemaker Pierre Vincent described 2012 as "a year with severe mildew pressure" but noted that sunny summer weather nicely dried out the grape skins. Average yields were in the range of 20 hectoliters per hectare, and more like 15 for the estate's grand crus.
Drink 2019 - 2026