2012 Champagne Billecart-Salmon, Cuvée Louis, Blanc de Blancs, Brut

A blend of 60% Mesnil-sur-Oger, 23% Cramant, 11% Chouilly and 6% Oiry, this pale gold fizz with a dosage of 3.9 grams per litre was disgorged in the first quarter of 2023 after 115 months on the lees. With 25% vinified in cask, it displays a beautiful fragrance of sweet spice and nuttiness, with a voluptuous feel to the texture as it dissolves on the tongue with lovely rich stone fruit flavours initially, then all that ripe sweet peachy fruit turns elegantly dry and savoury on the tongue. A super-satisfying drop, the low dosage contributes to the overall dry, tangy citrus-zesty refreshing feel, its backbone providing a satisfying contrast with the voluptuous fruit quality.

The 2012 Brut Blancs de Blancs Louis Salmon is a gorgeous Champagne. Lemon confit, spice, baked apple tart, chamomile and dried flowers are all nicely amplified. The 2012 was done 75% in tank and 25% in oak, with most of the lots undergoing malolactic fermentation. There's a feeling of reserve in the 2012 that is quite appealing. This edition is terrific, but it also needs time to be at its best. I would be in no rush to open this. Low yields and a year beset by frost, hail, heavy rain, mildew and sunburn at various times produced a rich Champagne. The blend of sites in Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly, Cramant and Oiry works so well. Dosage is 3.9 grams per liter. Disgorged: first trimester 2023.

Drink 2025 - 2037

Precise and sensual blanc de blancs with notes of pie crust, grapefruit, white peaches, chalk and hazelnuts. Driven, mouth-watering and with fantastic structure, yet it’s so balanced and creamy. Very fine and silky bubbles. 3.9g/L dosage.

Drink or hold

100% of the Chardonnay grapes came from the Grand Cru villages of Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly, Cramant and Oiry. 25% were fermented in oak. Only partial malolactic conversion. Disgorged in early 2023 with a dosage of 3.9 g/l.

Pale lemon colour and a wine that opens up in the glass; it might even be one of those champagnes worth decanting for this is initially very tight. But then reveals citrus and then floral aromas and a very bracing, revitalising palate. The sort of champagne to be served as a luxurious aperitif. With time in the glass it also reveals hazelnut notes. Impressively long. No hurry to drink this.

Drink 2024 - 2034

Tasted from magnum. Alongside the main release in 75cl, a limited number of magnums of 2012 Louis Salmon have been released simultaneously. Aged under cork during its second fermentation, these reframe the 2012's already expressive aromatics in explosive charry, flinty energy and an extra degree of fluid freshness on the palate, representing an irresistible supercharging of the beautifully ripe lemon syrup, apricot and sweet spice flavours present in this fine release, nimble and transparent with a beautifully precise palate unmarked by dosage or some of the heavier, more concentrated fruit the year can bring. 60% from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, with the remainder from Cramant, Chouilly and Oiry, with 25% barrel fermentation and 115 months on lees. Dosage 3.9g/L.

Drink 2024 - 2040