2009 Barolo, Monprivato, Mascarello Giuseppe & Figlio, Piedmont, Italy

2009’s notable in that the Mascarello family chose not to make their Riserva ‘Ca d’Morissio’ in this vintage, so its old Michet clone fruit has been diverted into Monprivato instead. Monprivato is a ‘Vigna Grande’ (Grand Cru) vineyard in all but name. Perfectly exposed on 100% limestone soils, it’s the ‘Les Amoureuses’ of Castiglione Falletto. Similar in colour to neighbour Villero yet with a darker hue, the nose is really intense, more elusive, with strawberry herbal, almost incense aromas. Fuller than Villero, more ‘avvolgente’ (enveloping)  and yet at the same time deeper, more profound and brooding, not wishing to make a spectacle of itself. Ah! the brilliance of Nebbiolo!
David Berry Green