2004 Prado Enea, Gran Reserva, Bodegas Muga, Rioja, Spain

Along with 2001, 2004 is a great recent Rioja vintage, an excellent backdrop for the famous Prado Enea Gran Reserva. Made from 80% Tempranillo, 7% of both Garnacha and Mazuelo and 6% Graciano, the wine has already enjoyed 12 months in vat, three years in barrel and another 36 months in bottle, bringing us up to date. Garnet to a blood-red hue, the wine is savoury, fat and indulgent, with a whiff of gentle decay far from unattractive, drawing the taster into a den of tobacco and leathery sapidity. The wine finishes strongly with firm acidity and a baroque crescendo.

Berry Bros. & Rudd