2004 Champagne Gosset, Célébris, Extra Brut

A famously large harvest and one where the inverse relationship between quantity and quality did not really hold sway as this terrific Celebris so eloquently demonstrates. In 2021 this wine has enjoyed seven years of post-disgorgement ageing and appears to have benefited from the experience by shunning any apparition of leafy seniority and by maintaining a crisp, honeyed, stone fruit freshness; vinous complexity thereafter and a cerebral, slightly salty finish which is beautifully rendered.
Simon Field MW, Decanter (July 2021)