2002 Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac, Bordeaux

Tasted blind as a vintage comparison at the Valandraud vertical, the 2002 Mouton-Rothschild is a wine that burned brightly in its youth, though recent encounters suggest that maybe it is beginning to flag as it enters what you might call middle age. Here, it has a conservative bouquet with blackberry, cedar, warm bricks and melted tar aromas - an unfussy, uncomplicated, quite serious Pauillac bouquet. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity. It feels lively on the entry with fine tannin, a Mouton that is nimble on its feet with a gentle grip towards the finish, which offers a satisfying aftertaste of spice and clove. It does not mirror some of the outstanding bottles I consumed within the first decade of its life, and peering into this First Growth, it is difficult to see whether it will repay those who cellar it longer. Tasted December 2016.

"Another candidate for wine of the vintage... it is a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. The color may be the most saturated and opaque of any Médoc Cabernet based 2002. It is a broad-flavored offering displaying tell-tale créme de cassis intermixed with smoke, cocoa, leather and liquorice... This is unquestionably a vin de garde for long-term cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2015 - 2040." 96/100 pts.