2002 Champagne Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne, Blanc de Blancs, Brut

A beautifully elegant and ultra-pure nose serves up attractively layered and mature aromas of spiced pear, white rose, citrus, brioche and hints of green apple. There is very good, if not stunning, complexity to the moderately vibrant flavours that are supported by an impressively refined effervescence before terminating in a balanced, dry, clean and lingering finish. For my taste, this has arrived at its apogee, though it should have no trouble holding for at least another decade.

Drink now

Taittinger's 2002 Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne is off the charts. I have tasted the 2002 now many times, and it has never been less than thrilling. A vivid kaleidoscope of pure Chardonnay aromas and flavours opens up in the glass. The 2002 is incredibly rich yet totally weightless and impeccable in its balance. All the classic Comtes notes are there, but with a level of detail and nuance, I don't think I have ever seen before. 

The 2002 is breathtakingly beautiful today, but it also appears to have the stuffing to age for decades. Personally, I would be looking to buy the 2002 in magnums if at all possible. Sadly, there is little wine to go around as 2002 was a very short crop. Readers who can track down the 2002 are in store for something truly great.

Drink 2013 - 2042

This shows incredible complexity with notes of preserved lemons, beeswax, chamomile, quince and porcini mushrooms. Salted caramel also. It's full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with rich and salty layers. Fantastic freshness, too. Powerful and keeps going. This was disgorged in 2012—ten years on the lees and ten years in bottle. 

Drink or hold

Tasted blind. A pretty light nose – almost floral, with a preserved ginger top note. Nicely integrated already. Very well balanced and well mannered. Ready. Transparent. Quite rich and long. A Blanc de Blancs? Dom Ruinart?

Drink 2013 - 2025

We started with a sensational 2002 Taittinger Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne. My word, this is exquisite, representing everything I adore in champagne. Limpid gold in hue, it has a compelling bouquet of walnut, smoke, dried honey and shucked oyster shells that I found utterly entrancing. 

The palate does not disappoint, displaying an irresistible rounded texture and perfectly pitched acidity that cuts through the flavours of lemon curd, orange pith and crushed stone. It was as if this champagne tried to give you everything you desired and did it with such aplomb that you could not help but be smitten. Undoubtedly, it will cruise at a high altitude for many years.

Drink 2020 - 2040

The 2002 Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne is beginning to drink very well, wafting from the glass with a brilliant bouquet that mingles aromas of pear, citrus confit and dried fruits with notions of marzipan, brioche, oyster shell and smoke. 

The wine is full-bodied, broad and textural on the palate, with a layered and multidimensional core, considerable concentration and a long, penetrating finish. Racy and precise though the wine is, this is a broader, richer rendition of Comtes than the compelling 2008 preceded in this tasting, but it's hard to choose between the two in terms of quality.

Drink 2019 - 2040