1963 Graham's, Port, Portugal

The 1963 Graham’s Vintage Port is mature in colour, with wide bricking on the rim and a mahogany core. It has an elegant, almost understated bouquet for a 1963, presenting scents of eucalyptus, antique bureau, clove and Chinese five-spice, all beautifully defined. The palate is very well balanced, silky smooth in texture and spiced with white pepper, touches of curry leaf and cracked black pepper.

At 55 years of age, it is not a voluminous, opulent Vintage Port, and it feels just a little faded. I suspect that maybe it peaked a few years back, but it will still give pleasure for several years. Just don’t expect fireworks. Tasted at the Symington Tawny Port tasting at the Tower of London.

Drink 2018-2030, Neal Martin, Vinous.com (December 2018)