2006 Château d'Yquem, Sauternes, Bordeaux

The 2006 Yquem continues to be a great Yquem, not quite among the top tier but let's slot it in one level below. It possesses virtually the same aromatics as the last bottle that I tasted at the château: beeswax and lanolin merging with honeyed fruit, dried quince and marzipan. The palate is medium-bodied, viscous, a dash of spice on the entry with very good weight in the mouth. There is still that lovely saltiness on the finish that leaves you begging for another sip - completing a long-term Yquem that is only just finishing its first couple of chapters. Tasted April 2016.

While no surprise here, this wine, which will be bottled in 2009, is certainly this estate’s greatest effort since their 2001. It completely outclasses everything from the appellation, but even when you’re number one, that’s often hard to do. This light gold wine offers up a sensational smorgasbord of aromas including huge honeyed pineapple and other caramelized tropical fruit flavors, massive richness, and a viscous, unctuous texture with the oak beautifully integrated.

The wine has enough acidity to buttress its full-bodied mouthfeel, but this is not by any means the sweetest or most alcoholic of the d’Yquems I have tasted. In fact, in the range of d’Yquems, this is a powerful wine, but it is one built more on finesse and elegance, a la the 1988. Nevertheless, this wine will prove to have 50+ years of longevity. The finish, the mid-palate, the sensation of looking at a skyscraper of Semillon with a small dosage of Sauvignon, is impressive.

Like all of the sweet wines of Barsac and Sauternes, one can drink this young, but the nuances and complexities really don’t emerge for at least a decade, especially in the case of a wine such as this. Bravo!