2012 Château Giscours, Margaux, Bordeaux

A polished, silky style, with cashmere tannins that let the supple plum and boysenberry fruit glide along. Suave black tea chimes in on the finish. Appears easygoing at first, but there's ample stuffing here. Solid.

Dark crimson. Hint of wood shavings on the nose. Well-melded fruit and great balance on the palate. Nothing forced, with real zest and great balance. Something a little meat flavoured about this – a welcome change from all the obvious sweetness.

This is not as concentrated as some vintages, but is an enjoyable Giscours with plenty going for it over the medium term. Smoky black fruit aromas lead to good weight on the attack and through the mid-palate, suggesting careful and well-controlled extraction of ripe fruits. This takes its time to open and is relatively subdued, but has an enjoyable depth and spiciness. The acidity is juicy rather than tight.

Drink 2021 - 2040

Tasted at the Château Giscours vertical and a few months later again at the property, the 2012 Château Giscours is a blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc picked between September 27 and October 17. It has a rather conservative nose with raspberry, fresh strawberry, tobacco and light licorice scents. The palate is medium-bodied with supple black fruit, but with slightly aggressive acidity. Like the 2013, though to a lesser extent, it needs to show a little more concentration and finesse on the finish; but otherwise, enjoy this over the next decade or so. Tasted March 2016.