2022 Masseto, Tuscany, Italy

The 2022 Masseto is elegant and polished, just as it was when I first tasted it a few months ago. Bright red-toned fruit, blood orange, spice, menthol and cinnamon all meld together nicely in the glass. The lighter style of the year is evident, but there are no hard edges or awkward contours. The 2022 is a super-refined Masseto.

This vintage of the 2022 Masseto is 100% Merlot. The nose is pronounced, leading with its mineral aromas of crushed dark stones. It smells like dissolved minerals, delicate peppery accents, black plum, red apples, lavender perfume, and sage. The aromatics are quite profound in this vintage, and on the palate, it’s full-bodied and more structured, with ripe tannins and a good deal of depth and richness, with the minerality shining through. Long on the palate, it’s generous all the way through, and while it feels approachable upfront, more structure comes through on the finish. Allow it some time in cellar and drink 2028-2058.

This red is both well-structured and framed with new oak nuances of vanilla, toast and resin, setting the stage for plum, blackberry, fruitcake, mineral and tobacco flavors. There’s a salty element interwoven throughout, along with a fluid feel. Offers fine grip on the lingering finish, so give the dense tannins some time to integrate. Merlot.

The summer was so arid in 2022 that the vines shut down and ripening was halted until mid-August rains arrived. This helped to preserve acidity in the grapes, giving sensational freshness to balance the rich and finely structured palate. Masseto 2022, then, combines the best of both worlds: fruit ripeness and concentration, and freshness and poise. It's not as immediately seductive as the 2021, but there is so much potential in this long-lived vintage. Scents of cool, damp earth, dark hedgerow berries, Mediterranean scrub, and cocoa and wood give a sense of what is to come once time has untangled everything. Zingy, crunchy acidity steals the show early on, segueing into a mouthful of succulent yet dense dark berries and spice imbued with plenty of energy. Then some balsamic herbs and floral notes lighten the palate, before a touch of salinity and some bitter herbs emerge on the finish, with a refrain of bright cherry. Something special.

A solid and structured red with blackcurrant, chocolate and walnut aromas and underlying toasted wood. Medium- to full-bodied with chewy tannins and a chewy, savory finish. Hints of coconut and toasted oak. It’s muscular and toned. It needs time to soften. Best after 2028.

Cocoa bean, campfire, creamy raspberry fruits, fragrant and concentrated, plenty of grilled coffee beans and orange peel, complex, concentrated, nuanced, great quality. 24 months ageing in 100% new oak, then 12 months in bottle before release. Eleonora Marconi winemaker, Marco Balsimelli production director at this wonderful 11ha property owned by the Frescobaldi family.

The 2022 Massetino is expressively fragrant of rose oil, hibiscus tea, wild strawberry, raspberry, and sweet earth. Spherical, with palate-refreshing acidity, salinity, and fine-grained tannins. Impressively serious for a "second" wine. It is comprised of 90% Merlot and 10% Cab Franc.