Champagne Laurent-Perrier, Grand Siècle No. 26, Brut

The NV Grande Cuvée Grand Siècle No. 26 is an elegant, sophisticated wine. The brighter side of Grand Siècle comes through nicely in the No. 26, a blend of vintages 2012, 2008 and 2007. Brisk acids cut through a core of citrus peel, white flowers, mint and chalk. Still very young, the No. 26 could benefit from a few more years in bottle. This is a terrific effort from Laurent Perrier that remains quite youthful and vibrant. Disgorged: September 2024.

The NV Grande Cuvée Grand Siècle No. 26, a blend of 2012, 2008 and 2007, is absolutely gorgeous. Dried pear, smoke, crushed rocks and mint infuse a super-expressive, creamy Grand Siècle built on textural richness and resonance with Chardonnay's front and centre brightness. I tasted the no. 26 from a trial disgorgement. Even in the early going, it is extremely promising.

Eight different Grand Crus contributed to the blend of the bright straw-colored NV Champagne Grand Siècle Grande Cuvée 26 Brut (65% from 2012, 25% from 2008, and the rest from 2007). The nose offers notes of fresh bread dough, orange blossoms, fresh apples, and a hint of peach. Medium-bodied, the palate comes to life, filling with wonderful, pure notes of fleshy ripe fruit, a supple texture, and lots of length on the finish. It needs time initially to open in the glass, but as it opens it really starts to show its pedigree. It’s a very impressive wine to drink over the coming 2-3 decades. Released in January 2024. 7 grams per litre of dosage.

This is really something. Electric on the palate. The aromas are so complex with sliced fresh and dried ginger, subtle pie crust, tarte tatin and hints of nutmeg with some salted caramel. Toasted bread, too. Always subtle. The palate is full- to medium-bodied yet hemmed-in with a freshness and balance that draws you back. Savoury and vibrant. It's full of energy. Spectacular. Fascinating.

Symphonic blend of 2012, 2008 and 2007. 65% of the 2012, 25% of the 2008 and 10% of the 2007. Eight grand cru. Chardonnay 58% and 42% pinot noir. Disgorged February 2023. 10 years on the lees. 7g/L dosage.

Drink or hold

Expected release in the UK and US in October 2023. The usual tri-vintage blend, in this case 65% 2012, 25% 2008 and 10% 2007. About 70 different ingredients from eight grands crus, of which, as usual, the dominant grape is Chardonnay, comprising 58% of the blend. The Chardonnay came from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Cramant and Avize, while the 42% Pinot Noir was from Laurent-Perrier's home town of Tours-sur-Marne plus Ambonnay, Bouzy and Verzy.

Powerful aroma of orange peel and something in the putty/chalk spectrum. It somehow manages to be both tight yet approachable, dense in terms of flavour concentration yet filigree in terms of texture. As usual, it's so Chardonnay! Overriding citrus character and quite amazingly long, a mouthful tingling on the palate for minutes not seconds. Enormous finesse. Massive pleasure. This would make the most luxurious aperitif. Michel Fauconnet, having welcomed the new chef de cave in January 2023, must be especially proud of this wine.

Drink 2023 - 2033

This iteration of Grand Siècle is almost entirely composed of two of Champagne's greatest recent vintages, so expectations are high. The wine more than meets them, tempering the generosity of 2012's fruit – ripe apricots, white peach, clementines and sunny, zesty citrus – with a pitch-perfect streak of 2008 tautness and structure. 

There are some fleshy, creamy notes of papaya and toasted white sourdough, but everything is as delicately rendered as expected and impeccably shaped with a sleek, silky mousse. A little more approachable than Itération No. 25, it will welcome extended bottle age rather than demand it. 

The blend is 58% Chardonnay and 42% Pinot Noir from eight Grand Cru vineyards. 65% is from the 2012 vintage, 35% from 2008 and 10% from 2007.

Drink 2023 - 2043

A blend of the 2012, 2008 and 2007 vintages, the NV Brut Grand Siècle 26 won't be released for another four or five years, but there is a great deal to anticipate, as it's a stunning young wine in the making. 

Unfurling in the glass with scents of crisp nectarine, pear and honeyed citrus fruit that mingle with notions of fresh mint, blanched almonds and iodine, the wine is full-bodied, concentrated and tightly wound, with broad structural shoulders, tangy acids and a long, intense finish. It's a great Grand Siècle in the making.

Drink 2025 - 2045