2009 Gevrey-Chambertin, Aux Etelois, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet, Burgundy

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating and, at times, infuriating wine grape in the world. However, when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape, which grows in small, tight bunches, performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone-based subsoils. It is more susceptible than other varieties to overcropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive, and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Brothers Nicolas and David Rossignol have run this domaine, created by the marriage of their parents, since 1990. The range offers a fine overview of Gevrey-Chamberti terroir, capped by their three, very contrasting, Grands Crus. Over the years, their style has defined itself: these are now relatively delicate wines, lightly extracted so never deep in color, but built around subtle textures. Aromatics are further enhanced using about 50% whole bunches, depending on the year.