2009 Château Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux

Medium to deep garnet colored, the 2009 Haut-Bailly hits the ground running with bold black fruit preserves, Morello cherries, baked blueberries and tilled earth scents with nuances of fried herbs, chargrilled meat and a ferrous waft plus a touch of menthol. Medium to full-bodied, the taut palate has a firm, grainy texture with a lively line lifting the core of muscular fruit, finishing long and earthy.

The 2009 Haut-Bailly has an opaque ruby/purple color, a beautiful nose of lead pencil shavings, crème de cassis, blackberry and plum, followed by an intense, super-concentrated mouthfeel that is expansive and savory, with beautifully integrated tannins and low acidity, as most wines in this vintage possess. There is still plenty of freshness and liveliness from this great terroir. The finish goes on for close to a minute and the wine, while still a young pre-adolescent in terms of its evolution, is absolutely spectacularly complex and enjoyable already. This is a 40- to 50-year wine that will probably be surpassed in its longevity by its younger sibling, the 2010.

This vintage is a similar inky purple color, with subtle notes of licorice, barbecue smoke, crème de cassis, a bit more blackberry and slightly more formidable tannic structure, but again, the tannins are well-integrated and the wine constructed in a velvety, seamless haute couture) way by Véronique Sanders. The wine coats the palate in a viscosity and richness, but there's a freshness and precision that is further indication of just how profound this wine will turn out.

The wine needs another 5 to 10 years and is not as "open for business" as the 2009 will probably always be, but wow, what a spectacular wine! I suspect these are the two greatest back-to-back Haut-Baillys ever made in the long, celebrated history of this small estate in Pessac-Leognan.