2023 Ornellaia, Bolgheri Superiore, Tuscany, Italy

A surprisingly lightweight and finessed Ornellaia – the first full vintage under the watchful gaze of ex-Bordeaux winemaker Marco Balsimelli. Rose and violet fragrance introduces crunchy hedgerow berry flavours kissed by menthol, cardamom, black pepper and petrichor. Breezy-fresh and with good intensity, it's a slender, vertical shape in the mouth, with fine, slightly firm but ripe tannins and lipsmacking sapidity. Balsimelli notes that the sandy soils helped the plentiful spring rains to drain, and once past the threat of disease the water reserves proved useful for the hot summer. There was some rain in late August, while September featured cool nights, preserving aromatics and ensuring perfect ripening for all the estate's varieties. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot.

Moreish, confident and well judged, this is smoky yet ethereal, muscular yet light, wonderfully juicy and fragrant, with a perfectly judged blend of lightness of touch set against an unmistakable punch of damson, loganberry and red cherry fruits. Liquorice, tapenade and slate ensure the texture is slow and steady, and this is just a fabulous wine. Marco Balsimelli director, 65% new oak for ageing.

The Ornellaia 2023 Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot, and it is worth noting that Merlot remains present at nearly the same percentage as previous years, despite the greater challenges faced by early-ripening varieties in this mildew-prone vintage. Careful fruit selection made the difference. The wine shows impressive richness and concentration with a bouquet that leans botanical and complex, marked by dark fruit, Mediterranean thyme and rosemary. The nose was slightly closed when I tasted the wine, but it will open. The texture is velvety and polished, delivering beautiful richness with a sense of succulence that feels expansive on the palate. According to proprietor Lamberto Frescobaldi, the goal is to establish a clear through line focused on freshness and balancing fruit and spice while avoiding excess ripeness. This is a meticulously made Ornellaia that captures the vintage with remarkable elegance. The wine was bottled in July 2025 and is scheduled for release in March 2026.