2018 Brunello di Montalcino, Madonna delle Grazie, Il Marroneto, Tuscany, Italy

Taking things up a notch, the 2018 Brunello Di Montalcino Madonna Delle Grazie pours a bit richer ruby hue, with a concentrated perfume of incense, leather, blackberry, and lavender oil. It is full-bodied and well-structured, with ripe yet present tannins, and acidity that drives along the sides of the palate and keeps things from being weighted down. It is rich with port-like fruit and will benefit from several years of cellaring before drinking over the coming 2-3 decades.

This has an array of red and dark fruits with coffee, dark chocolate, sweet spices and overturned earth. Medium- to full-bodied with fine tannins and a pronounced dark berry character on the palate. A little tight and structured, with a firm and long-lasting finish that leaves you with notes of nut shell and crushed stones. Try after 2025.

Il Marroneto’s single-vineyard bottling is a selection of small loose bunches, manifested in the density of fruit and assuredness of structure. Next to the estate’s ‘classic’ Brunello, it often leads with an earthier, more autumnal countenance. The 2018 corresponds with fragrances of chestnut and forest undergrowth juxtaposed with the vintage’s fruit sweetness. Layers of long suede-like tannins wrap around fleshy black cherry. As it opens, subtle traces of pepper, leather and incense pledge more to come. Above all, Madonna delle Grazie embodies the most positive attributes of the vintage as it flows with agility and grace.