Champagne Chartogne-Taillet, Sainte Anne, Brut

Dosage is 4 grams per liter. Disgorged: April, 2023.

The NV Brut Cuvée Ste.-Anne 2020 base) is bright and nicely lifted, with lovely energy and fine balance. This is a restrained edition of the Cuvée Ste.-Anne that plays more on energy than size. Citrus, white flowers, mint, crushed rocks and a touch of well-judged oak lead into the sculpted finish.

Alexandre Chartogne turned out a stellar set of 2018s in a vintage that is showing itself to be a bit variable. What I admire most in these new releases is the vivid expression of place and variety, especially in this very warm year. The Champagnes are fermented and aged in barrel, so there is some wood influence, but oak lends texture and dimension without dominating the wines’ balance. Readers should note that the 2018 Orizeaux and Saint-Thierry are not yet released. I expect to taste the new Rosé release shortly.

Drink 2023 - 2030