2005 Château Montrose, St Estèphe, Bordeaux

Dark and chewy and much sweeter and less rigorous than usual. Perhaps because the tannins are so exceptionally ripe. Deep and dense with very fine depth – more lift than the samples of Cos tasted, though perhaps not the sheer density and solidity. Very fine dry mouthful. Fine tannins. Quite sinewy. Very nice neat refreshing though far from obtrusive acidity. Very fine and the power is relatively well hidden. The infamous IPT tannin index) was apparently even higher here than a Cos – though perhaps we don’t want to get into a competition in this respect.

Mid shaded garnet. Mellow, sweet palate entry and then a little char on the end. Tannins there still but mellowing. Just a little short.

Densely mineral and focused with a stern perfume.  By contrast, the palate is open, even and discreetly savoury.  It is showing its age, and there is no trace of bright fruit left, as the palate has moved into the cigar and leather stage.  Civilised and peaking, this is a prime example of an old-school, drinking Montrose.  In this regard, it is outclassed in this company.

Tasted at the vertical in London, the 2005 Montrose came and delivered the goods. This was the best example of the 2005 that I have tasted, perhaps a wine that is going to prove that, the longer wine lovers can resist temptation. It is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 3.5% Cabernet Franc and .5% Petit Verdot picked between 23 September and 9 October. The bouquet is extremely detailed, displaying more red berry fruit compared to the 2010 Montrose that leans towards black. Graphite and cedar emerge with time, even an unusual floral scent that is uncommon with respect to this property, whilst all the time retaining fantastic focus and delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a ferrous tincture on the entry. There are the first signs of secondary notes dried leaves and bay leaf), but it is the tannic backbone and the precision that really defines this Montrose at the moment. For certain, it is masculine and structured, yet it has enormous potential, perhaps more than was suggested when it was first released? This is for the long term, but you know that already. Tasted June 2016.

The 2005 Montrose has a saturated purple color. As backward as one would expect of a St.-Estèphe, it offers notes of sweet blackcurrant and black cherry fruit, earth, graphite and spice. It is medium to full-bodied, moderately tannic, and still a decade away from prime-time drinkability. This 30+ year wine is clearly outstanding, but not one of the vintage’s most prodigious efforts.